Banarasi Silk vs. Kanjeevaram Saree: A Tale of Two Weaves
Origin and heritage
Banarasi and Kanjeevaram sarees were originated from different zone of India and are rooted with their histories and cultural significance.
- Banarasi - These sarees are comes from Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh from North India, it's tradition blended well with Mughal era, with skilled artisans creating royal ornate decorative patterns which are Persian inspired motifs and traditional patterns. It's popular due to embedded luxurious fabric and intricate design.
- Kanjivaram - These sarees originates from the temple town of Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu from South India which believed to be date back over 400 years. It has a weaving history rooted from the prominence of the Chola dynasty and the Vijayanagara empire. The designs on sarees mainly has inspiration from spiritual symbols, nature and mythological scenes.
Weaving technique and construction
It requires a skilled weavers in the creation process of these sarees but the fundamental techniques are different while creating the final products.
- Banarasi Sarees - These sarees are widely popular due to intricate brocade weave work in which pattern are woven into the fabric. Some varieties include Kadwa technique in the Banarasi sarees where motifs are woven separately for a smooth and seamless finish. For creating more intricate pattern across the fabric, zari work is used in saree's weave.
- Kanjivaram Sarees - In kanjivaram sarees, the body and border are normally woven separately and then joined together using a strong, detailed interlocking technique which is called korvai(Triple-shuttle weaving). This makes these sarees strong and inseparable. Now, korvai technique also allows a dramatic contrast between the body and border. Pallu is woven separately and joined to the body creating a visible zig-zag pattern.
Motifs and designs
- Banarasi Sarees - Motifs which are inspired from Mughal patterns like floral lefty vines, paisleys, and intricate jail designs. Mainly Kalga motif which symbols floral designs and butidar sarees complex patterns of floral and leafy clusters. These motifs appears all across the surface making the saree lighter and graceful despite having heavy zari work.
- Kanjivaram Saree - Motifs of temple borders, stripes and traditional elements which gives an inspiration of mythological and nature like peacocks, swans and elephants. These motifs are woven densely make the sarees sufficient in weight and royal appearance. The borders are contrasting which makes it unique by including mythological elements and geometric patterns.
Fabric and Texture
- Banarasi Sarees - Banarasi are normally woven with fine, elegant silk yarn which gives it a soft and smooth texture. Due to lightness of fine silk provides a more fluid and f=graceful drape, making it a more comfortable to wear for longer hours. Also, fabric is elastic and easily handle despite of having heavy zari work.
- Kanjivaram Saree - These are woven from thick, pure mulberry silk which comes from Karnataka. It's commonly double or triple plied which are heavier in weight and feel elegant. Due to thicker and dense weave, kanjivaram are more stiffer and more structured drape. Appearance are natural sheen, glossy due to mulberry silk which combined with zari.
Occasion and cultural significance
- Banarasi Sarees - Most popular is the red and the gold shades which are popular in north Indian and Bengali bridal clothes. From unique georgettes to rich katan silks are best for festivals, weddings and other formal events.
- Kanjivaram Saree - It's a symbol for tradition, grandeur and blessings and adopted as traditional bridal attire in South India. Due to temple-inspired motifs and rich texture, Kanjivaram is worn in several religious ceremonies and festivals.
6 Websites for buying best Banarasi Sarees
- Myntra
- Amazon India
- Mohey by Manyavar
- Koskii
- Umay Benaras
- Karagiri
6 Websites for buying best Kanjivaram Sarees
- Myntra
- Amazon India
- Nalli Silks
- Taneira
- Karagiri
- House of Ayana
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